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What to see Celio

7 sights

Basilica di San Clemente

Basilica di San Clemente

San Clemente is the most vivid time-machine in Rome: three cities stacked one on top of another, which you descend through floor by floor. At street level stands a serene 12th-century basilica with a glowing golden apse mosaic — the "Triumph of the Cross" as a great vine — and a chapel frescoed by Masolino in the 1420s.

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Casina dei Salvi & Museo Forma Urbis

Casina dei Salvi & Museo Forma Urbis

Laid out on the north-western shoulder of the Caelian, the Parco Archeologico del Celio is a green terrace of umbrella pines and scattered ancient marbles with one of the finest views over the Palatine and the Colosseum. At its centre stands the Casina del Salvi, a little neoclassical coffee-house built around 1835 by the architect Gaspare Salvi — modelled on Valadier's pavilion on the Pincio — and recently restored to its original role as a café and public study room.

Chiesa di Giovanni e Paolo / Case Romane del Celio

Chiesa di Giovanni e Paolo / Case Romane del Celio

The basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo crowns the Caelian above the ancient Clivo di Scauro, its tall medieval campanile and a row of buttressing arches among the most photographed sights on the hill. The church is dedicated to two Roman officials, John and Paul, said to have been martyred in their own home on this very spot — and that home survives, astonishingly intact, in the painted rooms beneath the nave.

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Basilica e Monastero dei Santi Quattro Coronati

Basilica e Monastero dei Santi Quattro Coronati

Set back on the quiet ridge between the Caelian and the Lateran, the Santi Quattro Coronati looks more like a castle than a church — and that is more or less what it became. Founded in the early Middle Ages and rebuilt as a fortified abbey after the Norman sack of 1084, its towering walls once guarded the road the popes took between the Lateran and the Colosseum. The four "crowned" martyrs to whom it is dedicated were, by tradition, stonemasons put to death for refusing to carve a pagan idol.

Basilica di Santo Stefano Rotondo al Celio

Basilica di Santo Stefano Rotondo al Celio

Santo Stefano Rotondo is one of the oldest and largest circular churches in the world, consecrated in the 5th century and dedicated to Saint Stephen, the first Christian martyr. Its unusual plan — a tall central drum ringed by concentric aisles of antique granite and marble columns — may echo the rotunda of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem; standing at its centre, lit from the high clerestory windows, is a strangely moving experience of early-Christian space.

Parco Archeologico del Colosseo

Parco Archeologico del Colosseo

The Parco Archeologico del Colosseo is the great archaeological zone at the foot of the Caelian, gathering under a single ticket the monuments that were the stage of ancient Rome: the Colosseum itself, the Roman Forum, the Palatine Hill and the Arch of Constantine, together with the Domus Aurea nearby. A combined itinerary lets you walk from the gladiators' arena, across the Forum where the Republic governed, and up onto the Palatine where the emperors lived — the very hill that gave us the word "palace".

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Local tips & flavours

  • San Clemente's lower levels
  • Villa Celimontana
  • Clivo di Scauro arches
  • Local bars on Via Capo d'Africa
  • Trattoria Luzzi
  • Rooftop Giulia & Sisto
  • Pizzeria Li Rioni
  • Pizza al taglio Bottega 67

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