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ROME · LIVING RIONI

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What to see Parione

3 sights

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

The square's beautiful elongated oval is no accident of town planning — it preserves the exact shape of the Stadium of Domitian, built around 86 AD for Greek-style athletic games, whose ruined arcades still survive a few metres below the pavement (and can be visited). For centuries this was where Romans raced, and later where the square was flooded in summer for mock naval games and splashing crowds.

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Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza

Tucked inside the courtyard of Rome's old university — "La Sapienza" — Sant'Ivo (1642–1660) is the boldest invention of Francesco Borromini, the tormented genius of the Baroque. Where his rivals worked with circles and squares, Borromini built the plan on a six-pointed star, a hexagram with alternately convex and concave bays, said to allude to the bee of the Barberini pope and to divine wisdom.

Palazzo Braschi

Palazzo Braschi

The last great palace built for the family of a pope, Palazzo Braschi was begun in 1792 for the relatives of Pius VI — an audacious project just as the age of papal nepotism was ending and revolution was sweeping Europe. Its showpiece is a magnificent staircase of red granite columns and stuccoes by Cosimo Morelli, one of the grandest interiors of late-18th-century Rome.

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Local tips & flavours

  • Pasquino
  • Caffè using Tre Scalini
  • Navona before breakfast
  • Stadium of Domitian ruins

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